Description

• The Farmall F-20 was originally advertised as the 'Increased-Power Farmall', and was similar to the orginal Farmall. The tractor paint scheme changed from gray to red on November 1, 1936 (the beginning of the 1937 production year). A number of F-20s were built in early 1934 using the Farmall Regular rear end and F-20 engine.
• I&T Shop Manuals International Harvester F12, F14, F20, F30, W12, W30 and W40 manual. Established in 1948. The family farm may be long gone, but the manuals that keep the tractors running are still available.
• 100 Farmall Implements (with or without Fast Hitch) - Parts Manual, 544 Pages - Part No: IH-P-IMP100 $73.95 100 Grain Drill Press Drill - Parts Manual, 164 Pages - Part No: IH-P-GD#10+.

International Harvester Farmall F12 F14 F20 And F30 Factory Service Manual

This International Harvester Farmall F12 F14 F20 And F30 Factory Service Manual povides detailed service information, step-by-step repair instruction and maintenance specifications for International Harvester (Farmall) W40, International Harvester (Farmall) W30, International Harvester (Farmall) W14, International Harvester (Farmall) W12, International Harvester (Farmall) O14, International Harvester (Farmall) O12, International Harvester (Farmall) F30, International Harvester (Farmall) F14, International Harvester (Farmall) F-20 McCormick Deering, International Harvester (Farmall) F-12 and International Harvester (Farmall) 1020 tractors.

This reproduction manual is a copy of the original out of print factory manual and includes model descriptions and serial number identification information to help you identify your model.

May 14, 2005 - I have been spending some good time lately working on the tractor and have made a lot of progress. I was able to get the sleeves back in. After doing so, I found another crack in one of the sleeves, so I took that one out and had to wait for another one to come in. Once it came in, I put the that last sleeve back in. Overall, I was surprised just how easy taking sleeves out and putting them back was. Remember, this is my first time doing any of this. The next step was to clean up the pistons, take off the old rings, clean the grooves and install new rings, all of which went really well.

Of greatest surprise was just how easy the pistons went back in. I rented a ring compressor from Murray's and that made the job very easy. I did have one problem in that I found that one piston was not moving freely on the rod. Luckily, I had an extra piston and rod and was able to replace the pin that the piston rotates on. Problem solved and all the pistons are in. I still need to find some plastiguage (?) so that I can measure the rod bearing clearances before I start her up later.

Once the pistons, were in, I proceeded with more of the engine assembly. You may remember that I have wavered between painting it before I put it together and getting it running first. I have decided to get it running, enjoy it some, figure out where the leaks are (if any), and then worry about making it look good. My next step was to put the rebuilt head on, which went on fine.

I then got to work on the rocker arms, which did not go so well. Turns out one of the rocker arm shafts was broken. Not sure if I did this during disassembly, or if this is one of the reasons it was parked 50+ years ago. Either way another bummer and a bit more cash out the door. This week, I received a replacement rocker arm assembly in the mail and got back to work. I decided to only use the shaft out of the replacement, as I want as much as the tractor to remain original as I can. The assembly went on fine, though I still have not secured it down, as I decided to order new oil trough felts.

Farmall F-12 Farmall F-14 Farmall F-20 Farmall F-30 Farmall F-30 +Cane Farmall F12, F14, F20, F30, O12, O14, W12, W14, 1020, W30, W40 Farmall FARMALL Regular Farmall FARMALL Regular & Fairway Farmall Fuel Inj Pump Farmall Fuel Inj Pump Model B & C Farmall Gas Engines Farmall Generators, Starters, Starter Switches, Voltage Regulators.

As such, I moved on to putting other parts of the tractor back together. I started with the oil filter and quickly figured out that my tractor has an aftermarket Fram F-4 oil filter assembly.

With the help of some folks on the Farmall e-mail list on on YTMag, I figured out that Napa has the replacement filter and have ordered a couple. In the meantime, I have cleaned and installed all of the oil lines and the oil pump. This tractor has a couple farmer installed skinny lines that go up to the valve cover and lubricate the valve train. I need to get some tubing as those lines have broken.

I also installed the manifold, water manifold and other parts of the cooling system. I need an new flat belt and have ordered that from The Fordson House (a great parts source). I hope to have it running by Memorial Day!

June 21, 2006 - The flat belt came in very quickly as usual, as did the oil filter. The rest of the assembly when pretty smoothly. It took a little while, as I would get so far, and figure out I forgot to order a part here and there. Little things like hoses and such. Or I would find that I needed a bolt I did not have. A few delays, but it all went quite smooth. At first I was concerned that not all the valves were moving and that I did not have much compression in a couple cylinders, but then I figured out that the rocker arms needed adjusting. I do not yet have a sediment bowl, so at first I was using a quart oil bottle with plastic tubing for a gas tank.